

For example this is a powerful technique for handling subjects that are covered by short hair, seen against uniform background. Second, if you slab with PMax but make the final result with DMap, you may end up with far less annoying halos than by processing the entire stack at once using either approach. Yes, slabbing can help with halos in a couple of different ways, depending on exactly what you're doing.įirst, as you note, if you do need to retouch then it's simpler to retouch from the slabs versus the more numerous original frames. But I am hoping the chore of touching up halos will be less in the slabbed stack, since there are fewer slabs than original frames to draw from.

#ZERENE FOCUS STACKER PRO#
Is slabbing supposed to help ease the pain of halos? I am using ZS Pro (free trial) and in what little chance I've had to actually use it, it seemed I had about as much halo artifact in the slabbed hairy spider that I recently stacked, as the same spider stacked without slabbing. But I only read that once, and as I recall his entire process was manual, combining images by brushing in Photoshop. Once upon a time, I did read about some photographer who avoided halos by methodically dissecting his subject as he shot from front to back, so that the in-focus portions were always seen without obstruction. Perhaps a stack-all that includes the just-background would give a better rendering of visible background, and then the subject area could be retouched if necessary using a stack-selected that excludes the just-background image.

So, for most subjects, I think you would have to exclude the just-background image from automatic stacking. This is because having unobstructed background available across the entire frame would make the entire subject vulnerable to the dreaded "transparent foreground" artifact. Second, the added information would be very likely to mess up an automatic stacking process, not help it. Certainly Zerene Stacker is not going to do that part automatically. In practice, not so much.įirst, it will be challenging to get the background alone properly aligned with the background in normal pictures that include the subject. See attached file of one of the problem areas of the photo.Ĭould the problem be helped in some circumstances by also taking some pictures of the background without the foreground subject? I was wondering if adding that to the stack might then give the program (and the human who does touching up) information about what to put into the background adjacent to the subject. I did check each individual frame and none of the frames had something tack sharp in that area. This is a macro shot (120mm lens, shot at F11). Are you thinking that maybe I should lower my step setting from 5 to 4? I seem to be getting enough depth of field from the near object in the frame vs. the 60 frame stack).The haloing (fuzzy looking) only goes out a few millimeters on then, then the image is clear (and the object is at the same distance where the haloing is vs. the 60 frame stack (yet of course the depth of field is better on the 100 frame stack vs. I am using Zerene Focus Stacker, and what I find interesting I am getting more haloing on the 100 frame stack vs. As far as the GFX 100, my settings were: (Frames = 40, 60, or 100), (Step = 5), (Interval = 2). Last night I did 3 different sequences (40 frames, 60 frames, and 100 frames). I am currently photographing with a Fuji GFX 100 medium format camera.
